Srinagar, Feb. 6 -- The grocery store at the heart of the Mohalla was a bustling hub of activity. Gulzar Ahmad, locally known as Gul Maam, the shopkeeper, was a man who prided himself on knowing every family's needs. He was quick with a smile and even quicker with a plastic bag. To him, the thin, crinkling film was the ultimate tool of his trade, it was cheap, it was clean, and it made his customers happy.I entered the shop; my notebook tucked under my arm. I watched as a woman bought a single pack of salt. Without a word, Gul Maam reached under the counter, snapped open a small yellow bag, and dropped the salt inside. The transaction took three seconds. The bag would be used for three minutes. It would last for three centuries."Gul Maam,...