India, March 19 -- One of the first things I notice when I walk into Ode, chef Rahul Akerkar's brand-new restaurant in Mumbai's Worli, is the warm, familial ambience. It's reminiscent of the vibe at Indigo Deli in Colaba, one of Akerkar's most popular culinary ventures, from the late 19o0s and 2000s, in the city. A lot has changed since then. The celebrated chef has seen success and challenges in equal measure over the last two decades. His previous venture, Qualia, opened to much acclaim but had to shutter in 2021 owing to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Akerkar and his family had even moved to Goa, but as fate would have it, an opportunity to collaborate with Aditya Birla New Age (ABNA), the hospitality arm of Aditya Birla Group, presented itse...