Hyderabad, April 27 -- It's 6.30pm on an early April day and the sun has begun to set around the imposing Charminar, bathing its turrets in an orange glow. The siren for the "azaan" descends on Old Hyderabad, and the call pierces the cacophony of the packed streets below. It is the holy month of Ramadan; devout Muslims file into the Mecca Masjid in droves to offer Maghrib prayers. When they emerge, they find a city waiting for "iftaar."...